Crystal Palace Yarns   
free knit slipper socks

Wild West Puffin Slipper Socks with Fringe
Toddler Slipper - Socks

Designed & Knit by Laura Andersson,
CPY "Sock Guru" and Sirius Knitting Publications

See Baby-Toddler version of these slippers HERE

Inspiration:
The puffin yarn is so soft and malleable that it seemed only logical to try fringe. The yarn looks and feels like a buttery-soft flannel or even a soft suede, and is a joy to knit.
Trust me, you DO want to try this yarn, and in more than one colorway!

Models: Puffin Pinto Pony #205 and Buckskin #108 w/ Black #108 trim
The buckskin & black men's slipper was knit by KyleAnn Williams

Materials:
Sizes: Adult woman's Small/Medium, Medium/Large (size 8 us), and Large/XL (man's small) written as S (M, L)
Yarn: 3 (4) 50 gr. balls Puffin  which allows extra for fringe
Needles: Crystal Palace bamboo double-pointed needles in size 4 us (3.5 mm), or size required to obtain the correct gauge.
Gauge: 5 sts/inch (24sts/10 cm) over St st for leg; 6 sts/in (24 st/10cm) for heel and foot to enhance wear.

Note 1: Fringe placement is wholly optional. In one model the fringe is only on the front part of the slipper; on the children's slippers the fringe goes all the way around. Fringe can also be placed about 1.5 in down from top of sock, or right above the heel. We will work 2 "fringe anchor rounds".

1. Cast On. With the Puffin color of your choice and #4 US dpn (or needles required for
gauge), cast on 40 (48, 56) sts. Do not join.
2. Purl 1 row; join being careful not to twist. Place marker.
3. Ribbing. Work in k2, p2 rib for 1-1.5 in (2.54 - 3.81 cm) or desired length from start.
4. Fringe anchor round. Purl 1 round.
5. Return to k2, p2 rib for 1-1.5 in (2.54 - 3.81 cm) so cuff will be ~2 -3 in (5 - 7.62 cm) from cast-on edge.
6. 2nd fringe anchor round. P 1 round.
7. Knit one round.
8. Divide for heel. The heel is worked over (half + 2) sts = 22 (26, 30) sts.
 a. K 11 (13, 15) sts; turn and p 22 (26, 30) sts.
 b. Place remaining sts on holder for instep.
9. Knitting heel.
 a. On front side *(Sl-1, k 1) across. Turn.
 b. On back side, Sl first st; purl across. Turn
 c. Work these two rows until heel is ~2.5 (2.75, 3.25) in from start.
10. Turning the heel.
 a. Knit across .5 + 2 st; k2tog, k1, turn.
 b. Purl 5, p2tog, p1, turn.
 c. Front: sl-1, knit to 1 st before "gap"; k2tog, k1 turn.
 d. Back: sl-1, purl to 1 st before "gap"; p2tog, p1 turn.
 e. Continue working rows c and d until all sts are done. You should finish with a purl row and be ready to knit.
11. Gusset Pickups
 a. Knit across heel sts.
 b. With a new needle, pick up and knit slipped st going down side of heel.
 c. At corner, before you get to instep st, it is possible to pick up one extra st. Do so, but put the st onto front of instep needle.
 d. Knit instep st in k2, p2 pattern for this first round, until you come to last st.
 e. Now prepare to pickup and knit along other side of heel. Take "corner st" (between instep needle and sts to be picked up) and slip this st onto end of instep needle. Now work this new st along with last instep st as a knit or purl st, according to what the k2, p2 pattern requires.
12. Gusset decreases.
 a. You will note that your total stitch count is higher than 40 (48, 56) you started with, and that all of the extra sts are on two heel needles.
 b. We will remove these gradually, working alternate decrease and no-decrease rounds.
 c. Work 1 round with no stitch count change, knit on needles 1 and 3, and work in Double Moss st for instep needle. (Note: instep st will be worked alternating a k2, p2 round with a p2, k2 round until all gusset decreases are completed.)
 d. Decrease round: On needle 1, knit across to the last 3 sts. Now K2tog, k1. Needle 2 is worked with no decreases in double moss (k2p2 for one round; p2k2 for the next. On needle 3, k1, sl-1, k1, pass slip st over (psso); knit to end of needle.
 e. Plain round: Needles 1 and 3, knit all st; Needle 2, work in double moss st.
 f. Continue alternating plain and decrease rounds until you have returned to starting number of sts.
13. Foot. Once you have decreased down to initial number of sts, work all three needles as knit only. Continue knitting until foot is ~ 2 in shorter than your longest toe.
14. Toe. Begin toe decreases. These will consist of two rounds.
a. Decrease Round: On Needle 1, knit up to last 3 sts; k2tog, k1. On Needle 2, K1, Sl-1, K1, psso; knit to last 3 st and then k2tog, k1. On Needle 3, K1, Sl-1, K1, psso. Knit to end of needle.
b. Plain Round: Knit all st.
c. Continuing Toe: alternate decrease and plain rounds until only ~20 sts remain.
d. Final toe. Work decrease round to end (leave about 8 st remaining.)
e. Close toe. Cut yarn, leaving an ~6 in end. Using crochet hook, pull yarn end through each st, 1 at a time, and drop them off needle.
Note: alternately use your own favorite toe closure.
15. Fringe. Cut pieces of yarn about 5 in long. Put one in each of 40 (48, 56) anchor sts. You can also do 2 rows of fringe. If only one row, you can put fringe only on top, halfway from cast on, as shown, or only at bottom.
a. I used a crochet hook to pull each piece of yarn through the anchor loop, then made yarn exactly even and tied a knot. Using ridges and sts from anchor row ensures fringe is evenly placed.
b. Decide if you want to add more fringe. Trim fringe to a pleasing uniformity, being careful not to allow any fringe to be too long or hinder walking.
16. Finishing. Tuck in all ends

Crystal Palace Yarns  160 23rd St, Richmond, CA 94804
phone: 510-237-9988,  fax: 510-237-9809
  
email: cpyinfo -at- straw.com

copyright 2007 Crystal Palace Yarns/Straw Into Gold, Inc. - We are happy to share this free knitting pattern with knitters. The pattern may be used for non-commercial personal or knitting guild use. It is not to be used in any publication in print nor should it be reproduced in electronic/digital format or elsewhere on the Web without permission. Knitting shops carrying CP Yarns Puffin are welcome to print and share this pattern with customers of our yarns.