See all the Mini Mochi colors here

** Edited version replaced original version on Jan. 6, 2010. **

Materials:
3 - 50 gm balls  Crystal Palace Yarns Mini Mochi #106 strawberry-limes (shown) or #551 intense rainbow, or desired color
Crystal Palace Bamboo circ needle, US size 1 (26 in long),
or set of #1 US single pointed needles.
2 – 24” pieces of ¼ inch satin ribbon;
large eyed tapestry needle or crochet hook
stitch marker (or yarn of contrasting color)

Gauge: In Garter Stitch: 28 sts and 32 ridges (64 rows)= 10 cm (4”)
In Stockinette Stitch: 30 sts and 44 rows = 10 com (4”)

Abbreviations:
BO-bind off; beg - begin(ning), CO-cast on; cont-continue; dec-decrease; K-knit; PM-place marker; psso- k1, sl-1, pass slip st over; PU-pick up; P-purl; rem- remaining; rep-repeat; rnd-round; RS-right side; Sl1-slip one; St(s)-stitch (es); WS- wrong side.

Directions:
CO 100 sts using provisional cast on. [See here for How-To Links.]

(Designer’s Note: The easiest is to tie the ribbon and working yarn together, hold the ribbon next to the needle and wrap the yarn around needle and ribbon until you have 100 stitches. The knot is untied after the first row and you tie the ends of the ribbon together until you need the stitches)
Editor’s Note: We laid the ribbon along the needle and then used the e-wrap cast on over both the needle and the ribbon.

Work 10 rows garter stitch.

Foundation triangles for entrelac:
*K two, turn work; sl-1, P 1, turn work,
sl-1, K 2, turn work; sl-1 P 2, turn work,
sl-1, K 3, turn work;  sl-1 P 3, turn work,
sl-1, K 4, turn work;  sl-1 P 4, turn work,
sl-1, K 5, turn work; sl-1, P 5, turn work,
sl-1, K 6, turn work; sl-1, P 6, turn work,
sl-1, K 7, turn work; sl-1, P 7, turn work,
sl-1, K 8, turn work; sl-1, P 8, turn work,
sl-1, K 9*.
Let these 10 sts rest and repeat from* to* for a total of ten triangles
Turning Triangle:
(WS) sl-1, M1, p2tog, turn work; sl-1, K 2, turn work,
sl-1, M1, P1, p2tog, turn work; sl-1, K 3, turn work,
sl-1, M1, P2, p2tog, turn work; sl-1, K 4, turn work,
sl-1, M1, P3, p2tog, turn work; sl-1, K 5, turn work,
sl-1, M1, P4, p2tog, turn work; sl-1, K 6, turn work,
sl-1, M1, P5, p2tog, turn work; sl-1, K 7, turn work,
sl-1, M1, P6, p2tog, turn work; sl-1, K 8, turn work,
sl-1, M1, P7, p2tog
Right Slanting Blocks:
Once you have done the first triangle in the row you will work 9 rectangles
**PU 9 sts P-wise along side of first triangle of previous row, K one st from left needle, turn
*sl-1, K9, turn; Sl-1, P8, P2tog. Turn*
Rep from * to * 8 more times.. Do not turn after final P row.**
First block completed.
Repeat from ** to ** until you have completed total of 9 blocks.
Right Edge Triangle:
PU 10 sts P-wise from edge of last triangle on previous tier.
Right edge triangle:
(RS) sl-1, K9, turn; (WS) sl-1, p7, P2tog, turn
sl-1, k8, turn; sl-1, p6, P2tog, turn
sl-1, k7, turn; sl-1, p5, p2tog, turn.
sl-1, k6, turn; sl-1, p4, p2tog, turn.
sl-1, k5, turn; sl-1, p3, p2tog, turn.
sl-1, k4, turn; sl-1, p2, p2tog, turn.
sl-1, k3, turn; sl-1, p1, p2tog, turn.
sl-1, k2, turn; sl-1, p2tog, turn.
sl-1, k1, turn; P2tog, turn so RS is facing.
Left-Slanting Blocks:
Sl-1 st from left needle to right needle; PU 8 sts K-wise from triangle just completed, K1 from left needle (10 sts), turn
*Slip 1, p9, turn; sl-1, K8, ssk, turn*
Rep from * to * 8 more times; do not turn after final rep
Remaining blocks: **PU 9 sts from side of block from previous row, K next st on left needle, turn
*sl-1, p9, turn; sl-1, k8, ssk, turn*
Rep from * to * 8 more times; do not turn after final rep**
Rep from ** to **until there are total of 10 blocks.
Work Turning Triangle
Work Right-Slanting Blocks
Work Right Edge Triangle
Last step in entrelac section (Designer’s Note: Sts that are not worked are left on needle so when you finish this part you will have 100 sts on needles for the Garter Ridges to match the other side of the top of sock)
First Finishing Triangle:
Sl-1 st from left needle to right needle; PU 8 sts K-wise from triangle, K1 from left needle, turn
*(WS) P10, turn; (RS) Sl-1, K8, SSK, turn
Slip 1, P8, turn; Sl-1, K7, SSK, turn
Slip 1, P7, turn; Sl-1, K6, SSK, turn
Slip 1, P6, turn; Sl-1, K5, SSK, turn
Slip 1, P5, turn; Sl-1, K4, SSK, turn
Slip 1, P4, turn; Sl-1, K3, SSK, turn
Slip 1, P3, turn; Sl-1, K2, SSK, turn
Slip 1, P2, turn; Sl-1, K1, SSK, turn
Slip 1, P1, turn; Sl-1, SSK; do not turn (10 sts on right needle).*
Remaining Final Triangles:
**PU 9 sts along next edge, K1 from left needle. Rep from * to * of First Finishing Triangle.**
Rep from ** to ** until you have worked edge of each rectangle and have total of 100 sts on needle.
Work 10 rows of garter stitch (5 ridges).
Back of leg:
Measure your foot; subtract 3 inches from total length of your foot. This measurement is used to decide how long the leg of the sock should be. The working yarn is attached at top of the leg; the other end is the “toe end.”
Starting from the toe end, measure “foot minus 3 inches” and place a marker. The sts between the yarn and the marker are the sts you will use for the back of leg. Work these sts for 64 rows (32 ridges) of garter stitch and place the rem unused sts onto the extra piece of ribbon.
With the yarn at top of sock take the empty needle (or other end of circular needle) and PU the corresponding number of sts on the CO edge. With right sides together, work a 3-needle bind off using the tapestry needle as your third needle or graft together using Kitchener stitch.

Heel Flap:
PU 32 sts across back of leg sts (1 st for every garter ridge). (Editor’s note: Picking up sts causes a “ridge” so be sure to check the orientation of the piece to decide if you should pick up the sts Kwise or Pwise.)
Sl-1, K across. Rep this row until heel flap measures the distance from ankle bone to floor. This could be from 1½-3 inches. (Editors note: often a pattern will have you work as many rows as you have heel flap sts, in this case 32 rows).
End after a wrong side row.
Heel Turn:
Row 1: SL-1, K17, K2tog, K1, turn.
Row 2: SL-1, P5, P2tog, P1, turn
Row 3: SL-1, K6, K2tog, K1, turn
Row 4: SL-1, P7, P2tog, P1, turn
Row 5: SL-1, K8, K2tog, K1, turn
Row 6: SL-1, P9, P2tog, P1, turn
Row 7: SL-1, K10, K2tog, K1, turn
Row 8: SL-1, P11, P2tog, P1, turn
Cont in this way until you have worked all sts.

Gusset: (Editor’s note: at this point, you may want to place the sts being held on the ribbon to a double pointed needle or stitch holder. You will be using the seam-as-you-go technique, working one st from the held sts at end of each row from now until you start the toe).
Sl-1, K across heel sts; pick up 1 st for each slipped st on the side of heel flap, picking up 1 extra st next to the entrelac foot to help prevent a hole.
Turn. Sl-1, P across to other side of heel and PU 1 st for each slipped st on the side of the heel flap, picking up 1 extra st next to the entrelac foot to help prevent a hole.
The gusset shaping has two rows:
Row 1: Sl-1, K to the last 2 sts on the needle, Sl-1, K2tog (one is from the entrelac foot top of sock), pass slipped st over the K2tog (decrease made), turn work.
Row 2: Sl-1. P to the last 2 sts on needle, Sl-1, P2tog (one from edge of entrelac foot top), pass slipped st over the P2tog (decrease made), turn.
Cont with these 2 rows until you are down to 32 sts.
Once you have 32 sts you will end each row with either a k2tog or p2tog (always using 1 st from the entrelac sock top) until you have worked the entire length of the entrelac foot.

Toe: (Editor’s Note: maintain the Sl-1 at the beg of each row.)
The toe is worked by working either a K2tog or a P2tog at the end of each row until you have a total of 8 sts left. You will now have 12 slipped sts on each side of the toe.
The next step in the toe is to pick up the slipped st at end of each row from bottom of toe when working top of the toe:
Row 1: K across, PU the slipped st at end of this row.
Row 2: P across, PU the slipped st at end of this row.
Rep these 2 rows until you have 32 sts again. PU 32 sts across instep.
To connect the top of the toe you can do a 3-needle bind off or Kitchener stitch the top of the sock to the top of the toe.
Weave in ends.

Wear Proudly!


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Pattern Copyright 2010 Crystal Palace Yarns/Straw Into Gold, Inc. - We are happy to share this  pattern with knitters. The pattern may be used for non-commercial personal or knitting guild use. It is not to be used in any publication in print nor should it be reproduced in electronic/digital format without permission. Knitting shops carrying CP Yarns Mini Mochi are welcome to print and share this pattern with customers of our yarns.
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